“It gives it an almost teddy-bear effect, but the starting point is quite utilitarian,” said Vevers. It was made from different lengths of shearling, and the belt and buckles were also covered in the material.
“The idea of distressed and love-worn really comes through in these.” Shearling that was treated until it achieved the grey tones of an abandoned cement wall was another standout but for the real shearling aficionados, it’s the reversible aviator coat that will prove irresistible. “Shearling has become a real reference point for Coach ready-to-wear,” Vevers said. The stars of the show were the instantly covetable shearling pieces, especially a double-breasted distressed metallic yellow jacket worn with matching flared pants. “It was nice for me to explore American candies,” said Vevers. Earrings were made from molds of doll shoes, candy, and lollipops. And to keep things from getting too serious, Vevers and his team had an absolute blast with the accessories: purses in the shape of dinosaurs, lips, stars, and moons were instantly collectable and looked especially good when paired with a big leather tote. Gauzy ruffled slipdresses in dusty shades of lavender, dark mint, poppy, and a coppery mustard, all dyed with natural dyes (logwood, leaf, safflower, and marigold, respectively) in collaboration with the artist Maggie Paxton were a welcome contrast to the heavy leathers and denim pieces that made up the bulk of the collection. “And I always think knit works really well next to leather.” Maxi skirts and flared jeans anchoring both cropped and oversized outerwear were worn by a super diverse crew of models, some of whom had been street-cast. “There’s something almost modest about it as a silhouette, but it’s really body-hugging,” Vevers explained. The show opened with a long knitted striped turtleneck in a mended/repaired style with an intarsia apple bearing the NY initials inside. The silhouette this season was long and lean. “I want it to feel like we’ve invited you into our home you’re much closer to the collection, much closer to the cast.” “There’s a certain sense of intimacy that I wanted to bring to the collection and to the way we present it,” Stuart Vevers explained a few days before the show at his studio in Hudson Yards.
Surrounded by the military portraits, dramatic chandeliers, and dark wood touches, the setting became about the history of the building itself. Instead, the show took place in the “reception rooms” at the front of the space. We were back at the Park Avenue Armory for Coach’s fall collection, but it wasn’t a repetition of last season’s large-scale presentation, bleacher-style seating and all.
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